How much of a gap between inlay?

[cheeseroller]

How much of a gap do you leave between the inlay and the work piece? How much glue do you use to secure the inlay? I've heard stories that some cuemakers actually use a pressure fit method for their inlays. Have you ever seen this?

Cheese Rolla

[barryc]

Originally Posted by cheeseroller

How much of a gap do you leave between the inlay and the work piece

How much glue do you use to secure the inlay? I've heard stories that some cuemakers actually use a pressure fit method for their inlays. Have you ever seen this?

Cheese Rolla

In determining good inlay work and not so good inlay work is how much glue line is visible between the inlay part and the cue. So, you want to have as little space as possible. I use the West system 2 ton thin epoxy for inlays and press fit them with a vice into the cue. I've never tried it, but I know of some who will freeze the inlay part, to shrink it, then inlay the part into the cue while it's frozen.

I don't know of any cue maker that just presses the inlays in without using some sort of adhesive.

I have seen customers using a magnifier trying to find glue lines, but as I've heard Richard Black say, Cue art should be viewed from at least a arms length.

Just my opinion, Barry c.

[cfcues]

There are zero gaps in my cues aswell....nothing brings a cue down like ugly glue lines and gaps...mine are press fit to a degree....

[Jack Madden]

As close to zero tolerance, epoxy, and press fit with vice.

[RogerO]

Originally Posted by barryc

In determining good inlay work and not so good inlay work is how much glue line is visible between the inlay part and the cue. So, you want to have as little space as possible. I use the West system 2 ton thin epoxy for inlays and press fit them with a vice into the cue. I've never tried it, but I know of some who will freeze the inlay part, to shrink it, then inlay the part into the cue while it's frozen.

I don't know of any cue maker that just presses the inlays in without using some sort of adhesive.

I have seen customers using a magnifier trying to find glue lines, but as I've heard Richard Black say, Cue art should be viewed from at least a arms length.

Just my opinion, Barry c.

Good info Barry, thanks.
Roger

[MurrayTucker]

Originally Posted by Jack Madden

As close to zero tolerance, epoxy, and press fit with vice.

Ditto.............

[Skins]

no. 1, good machining is key for both pocket and part. then the glue will act as a lubricant to allow the otherwise tight inlay to be pressed in, hopefully without breaking.

[wincue]

Barry,

I have the utmost respect for Richard, his design expertise and what he's done to promote the cue industry. However, you just have to look at the work that guys like McWorter, Chudy, Ernie, Manzino and a couple of others are doing and you can see that theory went by the way-side long ago.

[hadjcues]

I try to have as close to zero glueline as possible. Easy on dark woods and a whole lot tougher on light colored woods.

I do the inlay and pockets by hand, got not CNC nor panto set up to do it... wrecks my nerves everytime